Netflix will reunite Key and Peele for a stop-motion animated film

We’ve got some good news for Key and Peele fans. Keegan Michael Key and Jordan Peele are reuniting and will be voicing the leads of Netflix’s upcoming stop-motion animated film Wendell and Wild. While it’s not a Key and Peele revival, it does sound like a pretty interesting project. The movie is based on an original story from Henry Selick, who directed the stop-motion films Coraline, James and the Giant Peach and The Nightmare Before Christmas. Selick is also directing Wendell and Wild and will be writing the script alongside Peele and Clay McLeod Chapman.

Key and Peele will play two demon brothers who try to escape hell and must go head to head with their arch-enemy to earn their release. This is the second major stop-motion film for Netflix, which last year also snagged the rights to Bubbles, a movie about Michael Jackson’s pet chimp.

There’s no word yet on when Wendell and Wild will be released, but stop-motion takes quite a while to produce, so it probably won’t be anytime soon.

Via: SlashFilm

Review: Anker Debuts New 7.5-Watt ‘PowerWave’ Wireless Chargers Optimized for iPhones, On Sale Up to 20% Off

With the launch of the iPhone X, 8, and 8 Plus last September, Apple finally embraced wireless smartphone charging, and as of the release of iOS 11.2 in December, the devices became able to support faster 7.5-watt charging.

Belkin and Mophie were Apple’s launch partners for wireless charging, with their optimized charging bases launching alongside the new phones and supporting the 7.5-watt power targeted by Apple. While Belkin and Mophie’s chargers had Apple’s early seal of approval, plenty of other manufacturers already had wireless chargers rated at 5 watts and higher on the market. Pretty much all of them work just fine with iPhones, and in fact in our testing we found not much difference in iPhone charging speed between 5-watt and 7.5-watt chargers.

Now that Apple’s 7.5-watt charging spec has been available for a while, we’re starting to see more accessory manufacturers launching new chargers optimized to work with the new iPhones. One of the first major brands out of the gate in this wave is Anker, which has long been very popular with consumers for offering solid charging accessories at good prices with excellent customer service.

I profiled some of Anker’s previous wireless chargers back in December as part of my early wireless charger roundup, and several of those models have been strong sellers. With Apple’s specs for 7.5-watt charging now available, Anker today is releasing two new wireless chargers optimized to work with the iPhone. The new chargers, arriving under the “PowerWave” marketing name, feature built-in fans to help keep things cool and maintain high charging speeds at both 7.5 watts for iPhones and 10 watts for compatible Android phones. According to Anker, the fans help charge iPhones up to an hour faster than other chargers on the market.

“After testing most of the chargers on the market, we discovered that they shared a major flaw: the wireless coils gradually heat up and this prevents the chargers from dispensing 7.5W for long periods of time,” explained Steven Yang, CEO of Anker Innovations. “By adding a fan underneath the coil, we manage to regulate temperature and therefore allow the device to output consistent 7.5W power, resulting in the fastest wireless charge for the new iPhones.”

Anker certainly isn’t the first company to incorporate fans into its chargers, as the feature has been important for some of the 10-watt and even 15-watt chargers compatible with some Android phones. But pairing a fan-based cooling system with optimizations for Apple’s 7.5-watt spec has enabled Anker to charge iPhones even faster.

I’ve spent some time with both of Anker’s new PowerWave offerings, which include a stand model and a pad model. Anker’s previous 5-watt stand model has been my charger of choice on my office desk for the past several months, so I was eager to try out that style of PowerWave charger in particular.

Anker PowerWave 7.5W Stand
The PowerWave 7.5W Stand is normally priced at $49.99 and has a similar molded plastic design to the earlier 5-watt model, but comes in white instead of black. The white certainly attracts some attention, which can be a positive or a negative depending on the environment it’s placed in. I happen to like the look. The other design difference compared to the 5-watt model is that the base is much thicker in order to incorporate the fan. With the micro-USB port for the stand over to one side of the base, there’s room for a relatively large fan grille to help keep air moving.

Anker PowerWave 7.5W Stand
In my testing, the PowerWave 7.5W Stand certainly lived up to Anker’s claims of charging speed, as it was able to charge my iPhone X battery from 10 percent to 56 percent in just one hour. Nearly all of the over two dozen other chargers I’ve tested have only been able to reach between 38 and 43 percent over that time period. Whether charging speed is important depends on your individual use patterns, and some users have concerns over fast charging having a negative impact on long-term battery health, which is also part of the reason for having a fan to keep things cooler. But for many people, the risk to long-term battery health is worth it if they can top off their phones more quickly when they’re dropped onto a charger.

While the fan helps keep things cool and lets the charger maintain optimal charging speed for longer, it does make some noise. The stand generates an audible whirring sound that can be heard even from across a quiet room. For that reason, you might want to think twice about using this charger on a nightstand or in other quiet environments. But in a busy office setting with noise around or if you typically have music or other sounds playing while your phone is charging, it may not be noticeable.

I also tested out the $45.99 PowerWave 7.5W Pad, and interestingly, it didn’t charge my iPhone X quite as quickly as the stand did, but it was still able to outperform nearly every other charger I’ve tested, boosting my battery from 10 percent to 49 percent in an hour. Otherwise, this is a pretty typical pad-style charger, although it does have a similar eye-catching white color to the stand and is a little bulkier than some other pads due to the fan underneath the pad.

Anker PowerWave 7.5W Pad
Both the stand and the charger have distinctive small, circular, blue LEDs that light up while charging and flash to let you know if there’a problem. The LEDs are subtle enough that they’re not distracting even in dark rooms. The pad’s fan is audible, although it sounds significantly quieter than the stand.

Beyond Apple’s strict requirements, there’s another reason these PowerWave chargers are priced a bit higher than some of Anker’s other offerings, and that’s the fact that not only do you get a micro-USB cable but also a compact 18-watt Quick Charge 3.0 power adapter with folding prongs and a single USB-A port. The inclusion of the power adapter is important, as these chargers require a Quick Charge 3.0 adapter in order to work at all. If you plug the charger into another power adapter like one of Apple’s iPhone or iPad adapters, or even a standard USB port on a hub, the charger will not charge your phone. That’s something to keep in mind depending on how you’re planning to use the chargers.

Anker’s new PowerWave chargers are launching today on Amazon, and the company is submitting them to the Wireless Power Consortium for official Qi certification. The PowerWave stand is normally priced at $49.99 and the PowerWave pad at $45.99, but for a limited time Anker is offering a special deal through Amazon that gives you 15 percent off one charger (promo code POWER752) or 20 percent off two or more (promo code POWER753).

Note: Anker provided the wireless chargers to MacRumors free of charge for the purposes of this review. No other compensation was received. MacRumors is an affiliate partner with Amazon and may earn commissions on purchases made through links in this article.

Related Roundups: iPhone 8, iPhone XTag: AnkerBuyer’s Guide: iPhone 8 (Neutral), iPhone X (Buy Now)
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Apple Denies Abusing French Developers, Says They’ve Earned 1 Billion Euros From App Store

Apple has issued a statement defending against allegations made by France’s finance minister Bruno Le Maire, who earlier this week accused the iPhone maker of treating French startups and developers unfairly.

In the statement, loosely translated from French to English, Apple said it has “strong relationships” with French developers, and added that they have collectively earned one billion euros in revenue from the App Store.

Le Figaro via MacGeneration:

We are proud to have strong relationships with tens of thousands of developers across France, who have earned 1 billion euros on the App Store. Many of these talented developers founded their companies with one or two people and then saw their teams grow to offer their applications to users in 155 countries. This was only possible thanks to Apple’s investment in iOS, development tools, and the App Store. Apple has always defended the confidentiality and security of users and does not have access to user transactions with third-party applications. We are fully prepared to share our history in the French courts and to clarify this misunderstanding. In the meantime, we will continue to help French developers realize their dreams and support French students in their learning of the code through our coding program.

Le Maire said France will be taking Apple and Google to court in Paris for “abusive trade practices.” In a radio interview, he mentioned that Apple and Google “take all their data” and “can unilaterally rewrite their contracts.”

“I learned that when developers develop their applications, and sell to Google and Apple, their prices are imposed, Google and Apple take all their data, Google and Apple can unilaterally rewrite their contracts,” Le Maire said in an interview with RTL radio. “All that is unacceptable and it’s not the economy that we want. They can’t treat our startups and developers the way they do.”

“I will therefore be taking Google and Apple to the Paris commercial court for abusive trade practices,” Le Maire said.

It’s not very clear what Le Maire is referring to exactly. It’s possible the bit about prices being “imposed” refers to the 30 percent cut that Apple and Google collect from sales of apps and in-app purchases, but his comments were vague.

Tags: App Store, France
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SwiftKey Updates iOS App With New ‘Toolbar’ for Quicker Access to GIFs and More

iOS and Android keyboard app SwiftKey today announced its “biggest update” since the company was acquired by Microsoft in April of 2016. SwiftKey 7.0 includes a “Toolbar” designed to give users fast access to features that are both old and new.

Found under a new “+” sign to the left of the prediction bar, Toolbar will give iOS users the ability to quickly add emoji, GIFs, and items copied from the Clipboard into their messages, as well as customize the keyboard’s theme.

For Android users, Toolbar will house a few additional features like stickers, collections, calendar, and quick settings. SwiftKey 7.0 also adds in eight new ‘Lish’ hybrid languages, in this case letting people shift between English and Indic languages. SwiftKey said that down the line it will launch location sharing for U.S. and India-based users, as well as Calendar sharing, so that you can insert addresses and appointments into messages.

Third-party keyboards grew in popularity following the launch of iOS 8 in 2014, which introduced the ability for iPhones and iPads to support such keyboards on a systemwide basis. Companies like Fleksy have faced some trouble in the ensuing years, and others — like Swype — have shut down completely. Along with SwiftKey, Google’s Gboard is one of the other major third-party keyboards for iPhone.

SwiftKey is available to download for free from the iOS App Store [Direct Link], and users should begin seeing the version 7.0 update rolling out today.

Tags: SwiftKey Keyboard, SwiftKey
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Intel’s 8th-Gen Xeon and Core Processors Feature Redesigned Hardware to Address Spectre and Meltdown Vulnerabilities

Intel CEO Brian Krzanich today announced that its next-generation Xeon Scalable (Cascade Lake) processors and its 8th-generation Intel Core processors will feature redesigned components to protect against the Spectre and Meltdown vulnerabilities that affect all modern processors.

Spectre variant 1 of the vulnerabilities will continue to be addressed in software, while Intel is implementing hardware-based design changes to offer future protection against Spectre variant 2 and Meltdown variant 3.

We have redesigned parts of the processor to introduce new levels of protection through partitioning that will protect against both Variants 2 and 3. Think of this partitioning as additional “protective walls” between applications and user privilege levels to create an obstacle for bad actors.

Intel’s new Xeon Scalable processors and its 8th-generation Intel Core processors are expected to start shipping out to manufacturers in the second half of 2018.

Ahead of the hardware changes, Intel says that software-based microcode updates have now been issued for 100 percent of Intel products launched in the past five years, and all customers should make sure to continue to keep their systems up-to-date with software updates.

Krzanich also reaffirmed Intel’s commitment to customer-first urgency, transparent and timely communications, and ongoing security reassurance.

Apple began addressing the Meltdown and Spectre vulnerabilities back in early January with the release of iOS 11.2, macOS 10.13.2, and tvOS 11.2, which introduced mitigations for Meltdown. Subsequent iOS 11.2.2 and macOS High Sierra 10.13.2 Supplemental updates introduced mitigations for Spectre, as did patches for both macOS Sierra and OS X El Capitan in older machines.

Apple’s software mitigations for the vulnerabilities have not resulted in any significant measurable decline in performance.

Tags: Intel, Meltdown-Spectre
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Android Wear Becomes ‘Wear OS by Google’ as 1 in 3 Android Wear Watches are Used by iPhone Owners

Google today announced that it’s dropping the “Android” moniker from the name of its software designed for smart watches because it’s not just Android users who are using the devices.

Going forward, Android Wear, which is built into a wide range of smart watches from companies like LG, Misfit, Asus, Huawei, Fossil, and more, will be known as “Wear OS by Google.”

Google says that it’s making this change because in 2017, one out of every three new Android Wear watch owners used an iPhone.

Android Wear was also designed with the belief that wearable technology “should be for everyone” regardless of what style you wear on your wrist or what phone you use, so Google chose the new name to reflect this philosophy.

So as the watch industry gears up for another Baselworld next week, we’re announcing a new name that better reflects our technology, vision, and most important of all–the people who wear our watches. We’re now Wear OS by Google, a wearables operating system for everyone.

All existing devices using the software formerly known as Android Wear will begin displaying the new Wear OS by Google name “over the next few weeks.”

Tags: Android, Android Wear
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Keep connected on the road: Three easy ways to add Bluetooth to your car

Ian Allenden/123RF

In-vehicle technology has changed drastically along with the march toward self-driving cars, leading many people to wonder whether they need to upgrade their rides for the latest and greatest convenience features. If they don’t, they might be stuck with outdated equipment.

Fortunately, there’s another option. Some of the most useful connectivity and convenience technologies can be added to older cars with nearly the same ease-of-use and functionality as OE (original equipment) systems. Among these add-ons, the most popular and essential feature is Bluetooth. And since Bluetooth has been around for years, it’s dead simple to integrate and is extraordinarily versatile.

Within your vehicle, Bluetooth can be used for voice calls (channeling the phone’s audio through your car’s speakers) or to stream music from your smartphone. Some systems are limited to calls, but the majority of aftermarket units can connect both voice and music. As you can imagine, Bluetooth integration can significantly reduce driver distraction, making it a fundamental tool for just about anyone. In fact, most states have laws that require hands-free calling while driving.

With this in mind, let’s review the three ways you can quickly, easily, and affordably add Bluetooth functionality to your vehicle.

Option No. 1: Universal systems

If pulling wires apart just isn’t your cup of tea, by far the easiest way to add Bluetooth is with a universal kit, such as the iClever Himbox HB01. As the name implies, these standalone units work in just about any car thanks to a built-in speaker and microphone. Many of these systems clip onto your sun visor or can be mounted wherever you’d like with suction cups or tape.

There are pros and cons to these systems. On the plus side, many universal kits can be easily moved from vehicle to vehicle, so if you do a lot of car swapping and don’t want to pay for multiple units, you can just take the device with you. Unfortunately, systems that don’t wire into your factory audio unit won’t be able to integrate with your phone’s music apps.

There are a few universal devices that will wire into your head unit and can add music streaming to the list of functionalities, but that makes the installation process a bit more complicated. These devices usually range in price from $40 to $200.

Option No. 2: Aftermarket audio units

Replacing your vehicle’s head unit is a great option for those that want the greatest range of audio functionality. This process does require some labor, and you’ll need to embrace the “aftermarket” look of your new system, but most devices come with easy-to-follow instructions. With patience, common tools, and a couple hours, most people can replace their stereo system. Don’t want the hassle? Many electronics stores offer installation for around $100.

There’s a broad range of replacement stereo systems on the market. Fortunately, even the most affordable units feature Bluetooth integration for hands-free calling. As you work up the price ladder, other features like Bluetooth music streaming, complete smartphone integration (so you can access your phone’s apps through the car stereo), text messaging (reading your messages out loud so you keep your eyes on the road), and voice commands become available. You can even add units featuring Apple CarPlay or Android Auto.

The sheer number of devices on the market also means you’re likely to find a unit that closely matches your stock setup in color and design. Prices for these devices start as low as $40 and swing up to several hundred dollars. Top brands such as Pioneer, Alpine, and Kenwood offer an array of affordable options.

Option No. 3: Vehicle-specific adapters

If you love the look of your vehicle’s stock stereo system and don’t mind getting your wires crossed (bad pun, sorry), then a vehicle-specific adapter with Bluetooth functionality may be perfect for you: Crutchfield and other retailers sell a wide array of ’em.

The best part of a factory adapter is that it has been specifically engineered for your make and model vehicle, so you’ll have the best possible audio quality and vehicle-specific installation instructions. If you just want Bluetooth for hands-free calling and possibly music streaming (some systems are restricted to phone audio), then there’s no need to replace your entire head unit.

Installation time and difficulty will depend on the manufacturer, but most systems require you to remove the factory stereo, wire in the adapter, then route a wired microphone to the back of the head unit. When all’s said and done, you’ll be able to make and answer calls via Bluetooth through your factory system. In addition to maintaining the stock aesthetic, these adapters are usually pretty cheap, with the average setup costing less than $100. Luxury automakers generally charge more for their devices, but hey, what else is new?

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How to protect your camera to get good photos in bad weather

Hillary Grigonis / Digital Trends

As a photographer, you don’t need to be a storm chaser to appreciate what a little inclement weather can do to make a scene more interesting. Clouds can add texture to the sky, while rain can make a dull surface reflective — in fact, it’s a common practice in Hollywood to hose down streets to get the wet pavement look even on dry days. But if you want to be able to shoot in the elements, you’ll need to protect your gear — or else that amazing rainy day photo could be accompanied by an expensive repair bill. So how do you protect your camera and lenses from the rain, snow, or cold without just playing it safe and staying indoors?

Shooting in bad weather is about three things: Understanding your gear, knowing how to protect it, and following a few camera care basics.

Know your gear

Understanding the limitations of your gear will both help you capture better photos and extend the lifespan of your current camera. Many high-end cameras are weather sealed, which means they can withstand rain and snow without additional protection — but this does not mean they can be submerged. Ensure that both the camera and the lens, as well as any other electronic accessories like a flash, are also weather sealed before heading out without additional protection. Large amounts of water can potentially still damage a weather-sealed camera, however, so even these high-end models are best used with a rain cover in bad storms.

Cameras, lenses and flashes without weather-sealing should use a cover or another form of protection even in light rain and snow. Without protection, even small amounts of moisture can find their way into the camera, causing damage.

Chances are, you may already have some bad weather accessories already in your camera bag. A lens hood may be designed for keeping out lens flares, but that extra ledge helps keep the face of lens clear from rain drops and snowflakes. Keep several dry lens cloths on hand, as well.

Hillary Grigonis / Digital Trends

Keeping camera gear safe in bad weather

Just like there are dozens of options when it comes to picking out a new camera, weather protection gear isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution, and higher-end options can be quite expensive.

With each option, however, there’s one more thing to bring along — a towel. An ultra-absorbent, non-abrasive towel such as microfiber works best (you can often find them in the car care section), but you’ll need to bring along something to wipe the front of the lens and the sides of the camera if they get wet. You’ll also need a spot to keep that towel away from the rain, preferably in a waterproof camera bag.

The do-it-yourself solution

Keeping rain off your gear doesn’t have to be expensive. Photographer Chase Jarvis suggests using a shower cap to help keep rain off a camera body. Some photographers use Ziplock bags or another type of plastic bag with holes cut for the lens. (Just make sure there are no leaks before putting your camera inside, because… yikes.)

As always, duct tape is your friend here, too — we have used it to secure an umbrella to a monopod on at least one occasion. You could also rig a backpack to hold an umbrella, leaving your hands free to work the camera. Depending on the backpack (and with a large enough umbrella), this could be done with the bag’s tripod strap system, or by taking this hiker’s idea of using cords to attach the umbrella. DIY camera rain covers are seldom pretty, but they’re inexpensive — and some of them can be crafted quickly if some unexpected rainclouds roll in.

Official camera rain covers

Photographers don’t have to choose between putting a garbage bag over their camera or spending hundreds on rain gear — there are a number of inexpensive camera rain covers that are worth spending a few dollars on for better protection and easier access to controls.

A camera “poncho” is much like a DIY plastic bag,  only it is designed to fit snugly over the camera. Most use a drawstring to cinch the cover securely around the lens, and there’s usually an option to pop the viewfinder through a hole in the back, so you have an unimpeded view. The plastic is generally thin enough to access most controls, or may have a side opening to put your hand inside the cover. The OP/Tech rain-sleeve two-pack costs just $10, and while not expressly made for the greatest durability, these sleeves should last through multiple uses.

Such plastic covers don’t take up much space in a camera bag, so they work well for photographers who don’t often shoot in the rain but want to remain ready, just in case.

Think Tank Hydrophobia 300-600 V2.0 Rain cover

For photographers that spend more time in the rain, upgrading from poncho-style to an actual camera “jacket” is another option. Several accessory companies make these, using waterproof materials similar to a a raincoat. Likewise, these options are designed to last longer than the plastic covers, but they are more expensive. Vortex Storm Jacket, Ruggard Rain Shield, and LensCoat all make camera jackets, which range from $25 and $75. Think Tank’s Hydrophobia-series rain covers are built with professional photographers in mind, with support for long lenses and tripods, and start at around $120.

Hands-free umbrellas

A newer category in rain protection, a hands-free umbrella keeps away the rain while leaving your hands unencumbered — without a messy DIY duct tape job. These solutions work best on rainy days without much wind, or the wind could push some of the rain towards the gear. One option is an add-an umbrella holder that attaches an umbrella to a monopod or tripod. Tripod umbrella clamps range from a $13 option on Amazon to a $240 high-end model by Novoflex that works with a $145 umbrella.

Nubrella

Not shooting with a tripod? The Nubrella ($75) is an umbrella that you wear that retracts into a backpack when not in use. It might make you look a little silly, but that’s hardly a high price to pay for getting the shot.

Don’t forget about the gear you’re not using — and yourself.

Protecting the gear that’s not in your hands is essential, too. Make sure your camera bag is waterproof, or use a rain cover. Manhy bags include rain covers, others are waterproof without them, and some aren’t ready to get wet at all. Know what type of bag you have before you ruin your extra lenses.

Hillary Grigonis/Digital Trends

While keeping gear dry is a priority, don’t forget about keeping yourself dry, too! No, you don’t have electronics insides to fry, but the more comfortable you are, the longer you’ll be able to stay out and shoot.

If you’re going to be working in cold conditions, bring plenty of extra batteries — batteries don’t like being cold and will discharge more quickly. Keep the spares in an inside jacket pocket, where they’ll be protected from the elements and will be kept warm by your body heat.

Understand basic camera care

Protecting your gear in bad weather doesn’t stop once you’ve stepped indoors. Never put a camera away while wet, dusty or super cold. Be sure to wipe down the camera with a dry towel. Ideally, you should also leave the camera outside of your bag for a few hours to allow any excess moisture to dry out.

The same idea applies for shooting in cold weather. Putting a camera away wet or cold can create condensation on the inside of the gear — and that’s not something you can just wipe away with a towel.

DSLR and mirrorless shooters should also avoid swapping lenses in wet (or even dusty) conditions — head for cover and make sure the camera is completely wiped down before making the switch. The same is true for swapping batteries or memory cards. Watch out for any accumulated water around the battery and memory card door seals, and make sure they are dry before you close them up again.

Don’t be a fair-weather photographer — know the limits of your gear, add weather protection accessories and understanding a few camera care basics. For a few bucks, you can easily protect your gear to get that rainy day shot.

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• Got a new camera? Make the most of it with this camera guide for beginners
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How to photograph lightning: Tips for getting the best shots

Ian Froome/Unsplash

April showers bring May flowers. But that’s not all they bring. In many parts of the world, spring storms are also the catalyst for incredible displays of lightning — a challenging subject to photograph, but one well worth the reward if you have patience and a little bit of luck on your side.

Safety

Before we dive into what you’ll need to shoot lightning and how to shoot lightning, let’s get something important out of the way. Lightning isn’t to be taken lightly.

It’s estimated by the National Weather Service that in the United States alone, roughly 300 people a year get struck by lightning with an average of 30 of those strikes being fatal. If you can hear the thunder from the lightning, you can be struck. So get the shot you need, but be extremely careful and vigilant while doing so.

Wonderground on an iPad Pro

A good way to stay on top of things is to keep an eye on your local forecast via your smartphone or tablet. Apps like Weather Underground (Free: iOS, Android) and RadarScope ($10: iOS) are great for not only planning out your path along the storm, but making sure you don’t get caught off-guard if things get more serious.

Gear/Tools

Here’s the shortlist of the bare minimum items you’ll need to effectively capture lightning strikes:

• Camera (with a manual shutter speed mode, preferably with a bulb “B” setting)
• Cable or wireless shutter release
• Tripod

There are also dedicated lightning triggers, which automatically trip you camera’s shutter when they detect lightning, but such devices can be a tad expensive. It might be worth the investment if you do a lot of lightning photography, but when it comes down to it, the above listed items are all you truly need. That said, where there’s thunder there also tends to be rain, so it might be a good idea to include a plastic bag or cover for your camera so it doesn’t get soaked while trying to get the shot.

Taking the shot

First and foremost, find a good location. The variables are effectively infinite, so there’s no definitive right or wrong way to go about it. Just make sure you’re in a spot where you can get to safety in a hurry if things take a turn for the worst.

When settled on a location, set up your camera on a tripod and get the composition you want. Once you’re happy with the composition, connect the shutter release. Now it’s on to exposure settings.

As with any shoot, many variables will dramatically affect what your settings should be. That said, there are a few general setups that will point you in the right direction.

Johannes Plenio/Unsplash

First up, set your shutter speed to bulb mode. This mode is usually displayed as a “B” in your camera’s menu or on a shutter speed dial. In bulb mode, the shutter will stay open as long as you hold the shutter release, maximizing the likelihood of capturing a bolt of lightning. Remember, when it comes to lightning, the strike itself is short enough that you don’t have to worry about a fast shutter speed. (Bulb mod works great at night, but is not recommended for daytime photography as your image will be overexposed.)

Next, set your ISO. More often than not, your best bet is to use a low ISO, somewhere around 100 or 200. Since you’ll be holding the shutter open for an extended period of time, keeping the ISO low should help reduce the issue of long-exposure noise. Plus, lightning bolts are bright, so you don’t want to overexpose the entire scene when you do capture one.

Finally, set your aperture. Since you’ll be holding your shutter open for an extended period of time, it’s a good idea to choose an aperture that provides a correct exposure over the course of a 10 or 15 second shot. That way, you can hold the shutter open for an extended period of time to increase your chances of capturing a lightning strike. It’s also a good idea to use a small aperture to ensure the image is sharp from front to back. So long as you’re stopped down to f/5.6 or higher and focused on the horizon, you shouldn’t have any issues there, but if you do have close foreground elements, you may want to push that to f/11 or f/16.

Once your settings are in place, it’s little more than a waiting game with Mother Nature. Be patient, be consistent, and don’t lose hope if you end up with only one good shot in a hundred. Lightning photography is a game of numbers.

Dominik QN/Unsplash

It goes without saying that you should shoot in RAW. Lightning — and storms in general — are unpredictable, so what might be a great exposure one shot could prove to be a disaster the next. By shooting RAW, you’ll have more leniency in post-production to dial up the shadows or bring down the highlights around the lightning strike.

Wrapping up

If you’re serious about lightning photography or have a little bit of cash burning a hole in your pocket, you may want to check out one of the aforementioned lightning triggers, which will take a lot of the guesswork out of the equation. Again, these are far from necessary, so don’t feel discouraged if you can’t afford or don’t care to buy an automatic trigger.

What’s most important is being patient and putting in the time. You may not get it right on your first night out. Just keep going out there, have fun, and be safe.

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8 spring flower photography tips for budding photographers

It’s the time of year when bright green buds are popping out of the mud, but spring flowers offer a great opportunity for equally new and bright photographers. Flowers, with their bright colors, intricate details, and penchants for standing still for long periods of time, make for great photographic subjects, and offer new photographers a chance to get their feet wet (figuratively, but sometimes also literally) in the world of macro photography.

So how do you make sure those fresh blooms look every bit as Instagram-worthy as they do in person? Here’s what you need to know to get started in flower photography

Camera gear for flower photography

Flower photography can be as simple as using gear you already own to as complex as high-end interchangeable-lens cameras with specialized macro lenses, extension tubes, and filters. A DSLR or mirrorless camera is going to take better shots than a smartphone or compact camera, but that doesn’t mean you can’t shoot flowers with less expensive gear. Here are some different options, and the benefits and limitations of each.

Good: A smartphone camera and a macro add-on lens. Smartphone cameras won’t capture the same detail, color, or dynamic range as a higher-end camera, but they can still work well, particularly for sharing to social media and viewing from other smartphones, where the advantages of a larger camera may not be noticed as much. The wide-angle lens found on most smart phones isn’t great for close-ups, however, as it causes distortion. Phones that have a second telephoto lens, like the iPhone X, will do better here, but you should really consider a macro accessory lens, which will let you get closer and reveal even more detail in the subject.

Better: A compact camera with a macro mode. The smaller a camera’s sensor is, the easier it is to get up close. That means that, while a compact camera doesn’t have the same resolution or light gathering prowess as a DSLR, it often has better macro capabilities out of the box. The Olympus TG-5, for example, has an excellent macro mode.

Best: A DSLR or mirrorless camera with a macro lens. This combination will yield the most detail and highest quality results, for maximum photo flower power. Macro lenses are designed to focus very close to the subject, but it’s not just closeness that matters. Maximum magnification is the true purpose of a macro lens, and a true macro will have a 1:1 magnification ratio or higher. So minimum focus distance isn’t the only thing you should look for; a 100mm macro lens won’t focus as close as a 50mm macro lens, but it can still provide the same magnification. Some manufacturers will still label lenses as macro even with less than a 1:1 magnification, so take a close look at the specifications before buying a macro lens.

If you’d rather not invest in a macro lens, you can use an extension tube. An extension tube is a simple device that fits between your camera body and your lens. By moving the lens farther from the camera, it effectively reduces the close-focus distance and increases magnification, turning a standard lens into a macro. Results can actually be quite good, but there are two drawbacks. One, and extension tube reduces the total amount of light the lens can transmit, so you’ll need to compensate with a wider aperture or slower shutter speed. Two, the lens will essentially be in a close-focus-only mode, and won’t be able to focus far-away subjects. For these reasons, you won’t want to leave an extension tube on all the time, but it can make for an affordable alternative to a macro lens.

Other accessories often come in handy for flower photography, as well. A tripod isn’t necessarily mandatory, but we would certainly recommend it. Not only can it help get sharper shots and open up advanced techniques like focus stacking, but it will simply make things easier as you won’t have to awkwardly crouch or bend over while holding your camera to get the best angle.

A polarizing filter is another optional accessory. Polarizers cut back on polarized light, and can reduce glare and make colors pop, particularly greens, which is great for flower photography. A small, collapsible diffuser can also soften the light, or be used to help block wind and hold the flower still.

A simple spray bottle is a great way to add a splash of creativity to your picture. Give the flower a light misting, then use a macro lens to zero in on the water drops.

Flower Photography Tips For Better Spring Blossoms

Watch the weather.

Check the forecast before you plan any flower photography shoots. Wind can make flower close-ups frustrating (and focus stacking impossible). A cloudy day will create soft, even lighting, while a sunny day will create more contrast, so you may want to plan your shoot for the light that works best for the shot you have in mind. As with landscape photography, morning and evening are likely to offer the best light.

Experiment with angles.

Like photographing any subject, don’t just stick with the first composition that comes to you. Look at the flower from all angles to find the best vantage point. Different angles will bring out different qualities of the flower. A shot from directly above will bring out the flower’s shape while laying on your stomach and shooting up at the flower will make even the tiniest daisy look powerful. Flower photography composition isn’t just limited to close-ups either — consider taking a step back and photographing multiple flowers together, or the entire field.

As you look for angles that highlight the subject best, look for compositions that also eliminate any distractions in the background to prevent an unnecessary item from competing with the subject.

Find the right balance for depth of field.

The closer the lens is to an object, the shallower the depth of field will be. That means you range of what’s in focus could be very small, particularly with a DSLR or mirrorless camera and a macro lens. Getting the right depth of field can be difficult — the trick is to find a balance that creates a sharp flower and leaves any distractions in the background blurred.

Depth of field is dependent on both how close you are and the aperture setting on the lens, so use aperture priority mode and adjust the aperture to find the right mix of blurred background and a sharp subject. While an aperture of f/4 or f/5.6 may provide significant depth of field for non-macro photography, you will likely find an aperture of f/16 or even smaller will be required for extreme close-ups. Thankfully, digital cameras let you experiment as much as you need to, so try different settings until you get results you like.

Consider focus stacking.

When aperture alone isn’t enough for a sharp subject with a soft background, macro photographers will use the aforementioned technique of focus stacking. This involves taking a series of exposures from the same angle shot at different focal points, and then merging them all together in post to create an image that’s sharper than what you can capture in camera.

It’s an advanced technique, but if you’re interested in trying it, check out our focus stacking tutorial. (Or, if you are shooting with a recent Panasonic camera, use the built-in focus stacking mode.)

Use single point autofocus.

Focus is tricky in any type of macro shot because of the shallow depth of field. To maintain control over exactly what part of the flower is in focus, use single point autofocus (or, focus manually). This allows you to focus on a specific part of the flower, like the center or water drop on a petal.

Single point autofocus is typically located inside the menu options, while some higher-end cameras have shortcuts using physical controls. Check your camera’s manual if you’re unsure.

Try backlighting.

The feel of the sun in the spring by itself is nice — but place the sun behind the flower and the petals will have a surreal, almost magical glow. If you head out when the sun is lower in the sky, such as in the morning or an hour or two before sunset, try adjusting your position so that the sun is directly behind the flower to create this glow.

Backlighting makes exposure tricky, so use the spot or center-weighted metering option in your camera’s menu or shortcut controls. View the shot on the LCD screen, then adjust using exposure compensation if the shot is too bright or too dark (or use manual mode, if you’re comfortable).

Shoot after the rain.

If you’d rather not fake it with a spray bottle, use the real thing. A spring rain shouldn’t keep you out of the garden — in fact, it should encourage you to head out and shoot blooms freshly dotted with rain. Once the rain passes (or during, if you’re daring and can protect your camera from the moisture) head out for some flower photography. Besides the water droplets, colors also tend to have more pop after the rain.

Consider color.

Flower photography often offers an abundance of color, so use the different hues in the image as a compositional tool. Try adjusting your composition with contrast in mind — such as adjusting the angle so that other similar colored flowers aren’t in the background, instead using the surrounding greenery or the sky give you a background of a contrasting color. Look for complementary colors when photographing multiple flowers together.

Flowers make excellent subjects, particularly for beginners eager to jump into macro photography, as they won’t run away from you. Whether you just incorporate the basics or go all-out with a macro lens and focus stacking, remember to look for creative angles and experiment with different settings to help get an image that will stand out from the Instagram crowd.

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